Frequently Asked Questions

I work with investors who purchase your loan after closing. I provide a lender credit to pay your closing costs up front, and I’m reimbursed by the investor—so you don’t bring thousands to the table.

You’ll pay interest due for the month we close and fund a new escrow account. You then skip your first payment and receive a refund of your old escrow balance—so those largely wash out.

No. I don’t roll closing costs into your principal; your new loan amount matches your remaining balance.

Yes—you always skip the first month’s payment after a refi.

Your choice. You can restart at 30 years or keep your schedule (e.g., move to a 28-year term if you’ve had your loan 2 years).

Often, especially if you value upfront savings or may refinance again. If you’ll keep the loan a long time, paying costs for an even lower rate can win—I'll show both to compare.

As long as your lender pays the costs, keeps your balance the same, and aligns your term with your goals, it’s hard to call it “bad.”

Loan balance, current rate, home value estimate, ZIP, occupancy, and an approximate credit score. No documents needed for the initial estimate.

Not for the checker. If you proceed, we’ll get your authorization for a full application and credit pull.

Maybe. Some files receive appraisal waivers; if not, I’ll schedule it—and the lender credit can cover the fee.

Yes. If your new LTV is low enough, we can often remove PMI entirely.

Yes—the lender credit works the same way on a cash-out refinance.

Most loans close in ~3–4 weeks. We typically lock after file submission and verification. 30–45 day locks are common; I’ll advise on timing and watch pricing daily.

Then we’ll do it again. I monitor rates daily and will reach out whenever a free drop is available.